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Visitors face the Montréal skyline from the Kondiaronk lookout.
Visitors face the Montréal skyline from the Kondiaronk lookout. · Wilfredor · CC0

Montréal.

Carry a market picnic uphill for the Kondiaronk terrace, then give your legs a flatter second day along the canal. The city has a different horizon at each end.

Travel style

Overview

Winter along the Old Port waterfront.
Winter along the Old Port waterfront. Jeangagnon · CC BY-SA 4.0

Montréal spreads from the old docks of the St. Lawrence to a wooded hill above downtown. The distance is short enough to see the towers from the mountain and long enough to make two very different days. Spend one at the water, where archaeology and a spa boat share the old port, and another moving between Mile End’s bagel ovens and the Plateau’s green squares.

Stay near a métro station if you want both the Old Port and a late show. The river islands, Olympic district and Lachine Canal each deserve a separate outing. In winter, trade a long link on foot for a shorter walk from the train.

Shortlist

Carved wood and painted vaults inside Notre-Dame Basilica.
Carved wood and painted vaults inside Notre-Dame Basilica. Wilfredor · CC0

Three excellent days

Day 1

A hill above the street grid

Little Italy → Mount Royal → Plateau

The mountain is the long outing. A bus can shorten the approach, and a simpler supper near Saint-Laurent works after the descent.

A waterfront walkway at the Old Port.
A waterfront walkway at the Old Port. Sarran Hamilton · CC BY-SA 4.0
Morning

Gather a market picnic, stop in Little Italy’s park or start farther south at the bagel oven.

Expand Collapse morning suggestions
  • Jean-Talon Market

    Look over the produce stalls before deciding what to carry away. Make a circuit with an empty bag, then return for a small picnic rather than hauling groceries across town.

  • Parc de la Petite-Italie

    Take your market provisions to this neighbourhood square. It is a useful seated break before the walk back south.

  • St-Viateur Bagel

    Buy a sesame bagel at the original Saint-Viateur West shop. The seed crust and the little pull of the dough are easiest to appreciate while it is still warm.

Afternoon

Climb for the skyline, circle the lake or keep to level ground at the neighbourhood park.

Expand Collapse afternoon suggestions
  • Kondiaronk Lookout

    Follow the signed paths to the broad terrace above downtown. Going up on foot takes a substantial part of a morning, especially in snow or heat.

  • Beaver Lake

    Loop around the lake on the mountain's gentler western side. If the climb through the forest feels ambitious, take the mountain bus to shorten the approach.

  • Parc Sir-Wilfrid-Laurier

    Take a seat under the trees beside the neighbourhood paths. An uneventful picnic is a perfectly good reason to carry a bagel this far.

Evening

Walk by the ponds, rest at the garden square or finish the descent with a smoked meat sandwich.

Expand Collapse evening suggestions
  • Parc La Fontaine

    Follow the paths along the ponds and find a bench before choosing a longer circuit. In winter, use the posted path conditions to decide how far to go.

  • Square Saint-Louis

    Walk around the small garden and look up at the colourful houses from the public pavement. Give the front steps and their residents some space.

  • Schwartz’s Deli

    Order the smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard. A pickle or slaw alongside gives two people a simple shared lunch if the next stop is another counter.

Day 2

Towpath to the old docks

Atwater → Griffintown → Old Port

Keep the canal on one side as you walk east. Stop in Griffintown if legs or weather vote against the full stretch.

A tree-lined entrance to Parc La Fontaine.
A tree-lined entrance to Parc La Fontaine. Dean Bere · CC BY-SA 3.0
Morning

Shop for provisions, follow the towpath or begin at the quieter canal basin.

Expand Collapse morning suggestions
  • Atwater Market

    Choose produce and something portable below the market's clock tower. The canal is close enough that lunch can move outside as soon as the weather agrees.

  • Lachine Canal

    Pick a stretch of towpath near Atwater and walk in one direction before doubling back. Keep cycle traffic in mind when stopping for a photograph.

  • Griffintown’s Parc du Bassin-à-Gravier

    Take a break by the water in the park named for one of the former canal basins. It gives the warehouse-to-apartment changes along the canal a human scale.

Afternoon

Explore the former foundry, examine the ground below the old port or detour through the market building.

Expand Collapse afternoon suggestions
  • Fonderie Darling

    Choose an exhibition in the former industrial complex. Check its public opening days before building an afternoon around the galleries.

  • Pointe-à-Callière

    Go underground at the archaeology museum to see the layers below today's port streets. Start with the permanent collection before deciding whether to add a temporary exhibition.

  • Marché Bonsecours

    Step inside the domed market building to browse Québec design. It makes a good indoor detour on a windy afternoon near the docks.

Evening

Walk onto the pier, see the route from above or turn inland up the sloping square.

Expand Collapse evening suggestions
  • Clock Tower Quay

    Walk out along the pier for a view upriver and across to the islands. Make the quay itself the turnaround, regardless of access to the tower.

  • La Grande Roue de Montréal

    Choose a gondola ride for an elevated look at the riverfront. The skyline is a better reason to go on a clear evening than a rigid time on the itinerary.

  • Place Jacques-Cartier

    Walk the slope between city hall and the port. The upper end gives you a chance to see how the old city sits above the water.

Day 3

An island and an Olympic district

Parc Jean-Drapeau → Hochelaga → downtown

Use the métro between the river islands and the Olympic district. Keep the island morning short if you want a substantial garden walk.

McTavish Street rises through the McGill campus.
McTavish Street rises through the McGill campus. ArildV · CC BY-SA 4.0
Morning

Walk to Calder’s sculpture, explore the island gardens or time the crossing for an event at Espace 67.

Expand Collapse morning suggestions
  • L’Homme de Calder

    Walk to the monumental Calder sculpture for the framing of steel, river and skyline. Event fencing can change the approach.

  • Jardins des Floralies

    Follow the garden paths for an easy change of scene across the water. Check island access when a race or festival occupies part of the park.

  • Espace 67

    Consult the event calendar before travelling to the outdoor performance grounds. A ticketed event is a different outing from a riverside walk.

Afternoon

Follow the botanical paths, see the stadium from outside or head inside the former velodrome.

Expand Collapse afternoon suggestions
  • Montréal Botanical Garden

    Choose a garden or greenhouse by season and give it a proper visit. Some outdoor areas follow their own operating calendar.

  • Olympic Park Esplanade

    Walk outside the 1976 Olympic complex to see the stadium's enormous sculptural supports. Check the event and construction notices before setting out.

  • Biodôme

    Travel through recreated ecosystems in the former Olympic velodrome. Reserve the visit before pairing it with the nearby gardens.

Evening

Rest in the downtown square, hear a performance or make a reserved dinner your last stop.

Expand Collapse evening suggestions
  • Dorchester Square

    Find a bench in the square between downtown office blocks. It is a welcome patch of green on a walk between Sherbrooke and the station.

  • Place des Arts

    Read the programme by performance and hall. This is a complex of venues, and a precise meeting point matters when several audiences arrive together.

  • Le Club Chasse et Pêche

    Make the tasting of Québec produce the evening's appointment. Reserve a table on rue Saint-Claude and allow a leisurely walk back through Old Montréal.

What to book

A building entrance on the McGill University campus.
A building entrance on the McGill University campus. Selbymay · CC BY-SA 3.0

Check summit paths, island events and museum admission before deciding which legs of the route to walk.

The full guide

Neighborhoods

The fountain and trees at Square Saint-Louis.
The fountain and trees at Square Saint-Louis. Kenneth C. Zirkel · CC BY-SA 4.0

Old Montréal puts the docks and basilica close together. The Plateau and Mile End give a longer stay room for a familiar coffee counter, park paths and music along Saint-Laurent. Pick a métro connection before choosing a particular street.

Dining

Paths and lawns at Parc La Fontaine.
Paths and lawns at Parc La Fontaine. Ivan Malopinsky · CC BY-SA 4.0

Montréal’s lunch counters have their own vocabulary. A hot sesame bagel can go straight from the paper bag to the park. The pressed sandwich at Wilensky’s and the rye at Schwartz’s each merit a sitting of their own.

St-Viateur Bagel

Mile End

Buy a sesame bagel at the original Saint-Viateur West shop. The seed crust and the little pull of the dough are easiest to appreciate while it is still warm.

Zaddy TipAsk for sesame at the original Mile End counter and carry a bag for the park.

Schwartz’s Deli

Plateau

Order the smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard. A pickle or slaw alongside gives two people a simple shared lunch if the next stop is another counter.

Zaddy TipChoose the main Saint-Laurent deli for the counter experience and share sides if the meal comes before a show.

Wilensky’s Light Lunch

Mile End

Order the grilled Wilensky Special, with salami, bologna and mustard pressed into the roll. The sandwich comes its own way, a good reason to read the counter rules before ordering.

Zaddy TipGo at lunchtime. The Special is a mustard-dressed pressed sandwich at this weekday institution.

Culture

A sculptural detail inside Notre-Dame Basilica.
A sculptural detail inside Notre-Dame Basilica. Louis-Philippe Hébert · CC0

The river offers one way into the city’s history. Look underground at Pointe-à-Callière, look back towards downtown from the Expo islands, or head to Sherbrooke Street for a museum afternoon indoors.

Montréal Museum of Fine Arts

Golden Square Mile

Choose one collection in the museum's Sherbrooke Street buildings and give it the afternoon. A focused visit leaves plenty of attention for an evening performance.

Zaddy TipCheck the building and opening time for the collection you most want to see.

Biosphère

Île Sainte-Hélène

Look up at the geodesic dome before choosing the museum's environmental exhibitions. Exhibition admission and a walk on the island are separate decisions.

Zaddy TipDecide whether to pay for the museum or simply walk the island outside.

Activities

The baseball field at Parc La Fontaine.
The baseball field at Parc La Fontaine. Ptaff · CC0

Bring a separate bag for the bathing circuit on the river. On land, the canal paths stay low while Mount Royal asks for a climb. Snow, ice and a short winter afternoon change how far either walk should go.

Bota Bota

Old Port

Reserve the water circuit on the moored spa boat. Leave the phone in the locker and work a spell of rest into each round of hot and cold.

Zaddy TipReserve the water circuit separately from a massage, then leave the next appointment until after dinner.

Kondiaronk Lookout

Mount Royal

Follow the signed paths to the broad terrace above downtown. Going up on foot takes a substantial part of a morning, especially in snow or heat.

Zaddy TipConsider the bus uphill if a round-trip walk would consume the afternoon.

Lachine Canal

Southwest

Pick a stretch of towpath near Atwater and walk in one direction before doubling back. Keep cycle traffic in mind when stopping for a photograph.

Zaddy TipLeave the towpath clear for riders and use the bridge crossings to set a turnaround.

Nightlife

Saint Joseph’s Oratory illuminated after dark.
Saint Joseph’s Oratory illuminated after dark. Acarpentier · CC BY 3.0

On Saint-Laurent, the room determines the night. Downtown, compare the seated jazz sets with the performance halls around Place des Arts. Check the last métro in your direction before the show and choose a taxi if it finishes later.

Casa del Popolo

Mile End

Choose a small-room show on Saint-Laurent by its listings. Check the address on the ticket because related venues programme different rooms.

Zaddy TipMeet on the Saint-Laurent side at the address printed on the show listing.

Where to stay

Square Saint-Louis fountain at night.
Square Saint-Louis fountain at night. Alan.ca · CC BY-SA 3.0

Choose the western end of Old Montréal for morning walks to the port. Around Place des Arts, check whether an event faces the room you are booking. Farther north, a Plateau apartment or hotel near the orange line shortens the return from Mile End.

Getting around

A train at Place-des-Arts métro station.
A train at Place-des-Arts métro station. Alexcaban · CC BY-SA 3.0

Use the métro for the long links and walk at either end. Jean-Drapeau station serves the river islands. Reaching the top of Mount Royal takes a climb or a bus even when a map makes it look close to downtown.

FAQs

Interior near the tomb of Brother André at Saint Joseph’s Oratory.
Interior near the tomb of Brother André at Saint Joseph’s Oratory. Acarpentier · CC BY 3.0

Is the Old Port a good base for Mile End?

It works for the waterfront day. Allow a métro or bus trip north for Mile End and combine its bagel shops and music rooms in the same outing.

Can I see the mountain without walking up from downtown?

Use the mountain bus for a shorter approach to Beaver Lake or the lookout paths. There is still walking on the summit, and ice can change the route.

By Zaddy Travels · Guide sources checked . Travel-style plans reviewed . Field Notes reviewed .

Researched selections using the linked visitor, venue and transport sources. Travel plans and dining recommendations are based on published information.

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